Giorgio Armani opened his show to the soundtrack of Downton Abbey, who’s
era resonated with his vision for the season. The collection was something
of a tribute to Milanese masculinity, but the high waisted drop crotch
trousers, four button suits and frock coats felt like a nod to the English
aristocracy of yore. Accessories included dark sunglasses, crocodile skin
bags and slouchy scarves.
Ermano Scervino made stripes and checks the backbone of its AW15
collection, with outerwear as the most prominent feature. Overcoats,
duffles and double-breased peacoats came in plenty of versions and
fabrications, off-set by striped-roll necks and bright suede monkshoes. The
palette of grey prints was offset with naval blue and red stripes and
flashes of yellow. A furry peacoat was seen in three looks in aubergine,
beige and navy, and must be an item they are pushing for their commercial
sales.
Roberto Cavalli followed Gucci’s rockstar inspiration, but his muse was
less intellectual hippy and more urban cowboy. Models sported Elvis style
quiffs and had srips of fabric printed with the words ‘E…empathy’ and
‘No… Bounds’ pinned to their jackets and shirts. Elsewhere check shirting
and baroque knits were paired with slim fit leather trousers and fur coats.
Accessories included gold studs on a leather jacket and reptile pockets on
a parka, while footwear consisted of solid pointed black boots.
Brioni is a stalwart of Italian menswear fashion and for 70 years the
company has consistently delivered impeccable tailoring and craftsmanship.
Duffel coats, blousons, and jackets came in faded checks, which Brioni’s
creative director Brendan Mullane said were both horse-blanket inspired and
reminiscent of Brioni pieces that were featured on a 1970s cover of L’Uomo
Vogue. Master tailor Nazareno Fonticoli and his business partner Gaetano
Savini opened their first suit shop in Rome’s Via Barberini at the end of
World War II and held its first fashion show was held in 1952 at the Pitti
Palace, Florence.